Showing posts with label restoration. Show all posts
Showing posts with label restoration. Show all posts

Thursday, June 16, 2016

A Message in a Bottle


Victoria and Albert Museum
One of the things I love most about my job is digging into who, what, where, and why of a piece of furniture. Nowadays with the amount of information catalogued on the internet, you can gleam an amazing amount of information from only a few clues.

I’m sure, for me, it goes back to my apprenticeship in the violin shop when I sat one night with Stan Schmidt, examining the top a Stradivarius under a high powered magnifier as he pointed of out the obvious marks of an un-sharpened scraper. Not the earmark of a master, but a craftsman in a rush. From then on I have been hooked on the stories an object alone can tell you.

Whenever I work on a piece I always let my mind wander to an image of the maker, what was his life like, what was the day like when he finished this piece? Was it a grand accomplishment or another meal on the table?

While researching a piece recently I came upon a blog describing a nugget of gold. Not just the whispers from the past in the hand of the artisan, but a letter from the artisan himself, hidden inside his work. When you look at the creation the message was found in... and then the contents of the letter itself – I’m sure you will agree this message in a bottle is almost a precious as the masterpiece it was hidden inside.

I found the article on the blog of the “Lost Art Press”. If you have not been there before, it would be well worth your time - to bookmark the site and return frequently.
https://blog.lostartpress.com/…/when-cabbage-and-peas-were…/

Thursday, January 29, 2015

Wood Sandwiches and Warped Doors


My Son was helping me out at the studio one day and he got a bit distracted. I know he said he was hungry but I wasn't paying attention.

Hence the salami and Swiss on rye sandwich.
Or rather amaranth and satinwood on pine.


I thought of this as I was thinking of this post.

The layering of wood into a "sandwich" adds some interesting and useful properties that can be utilized for fabrication and restoration.




Sandwiched Wood
Some History

Plywood has been with us arguably for centuries. I say arguably because  the references and discussion of purpose and reason vary.  The arguments go from stability of the groundwork to the conservation of materials  - and pun intended it falls somewhere in-between.
 
It has never been the material of choice for me - but it does have it's purposes. The oft quoted line is "If Chippendale had plywood he would have used it." He may have, but my gut feeling is that we would probably have fewer remaining examples of his craftsmanship.

By veneering your most precious materials on to a dimensionally stable groundwork you are conserving the valuable figured wood. Slicing the presentation timber into thin veneers allows you to cover a considerably larger amount of surface - as opposed to using the original board in solid.

Imagine a day on the end of this saw
This technique of cutting valuable timber into veneers was implemented regularly  in the mid 17th century for just this reason. The problem is that the process of cutting the veneers was done entirely by hand. A time consuming and very laborious process. Consequently, the fabrication of a plywood groundwork would have been much too labor intensive, therefore the resawn presentation veneers were typically laid upon a secondary wood of pine and sometimes mahogany.


The following earliest reference from an examination of an Egyptian coffin was done (in my opinion) entirely for stability. Wood expands and contracts with the addition and removal of moisture across its thickness. By layering thin sections of wood crosswise into an panel, the movement is minimized and counteracted by the opposing layers.

From Pharaonic Egypt
The oldest piece of plywood was found in a third dynasty coffin, made of six layers of wood each 4 mm thick and held together by wooden pegs. [11] Like modern plywood the grain of its layers was arranged crosswise to give it added strength. [12] From 1750 BCE onwards this plywood technique became widespread. The thickness of the layers was reduced to less than three millimeters and they were stuck together with a glue made from bone, sinew and cartilage applied hot. [13]


The Rush of the Machine Age

In 1797 Samuel Bentham applied for patents covering several machines to produce veneers. In his patent applications, he described the concept of laminating several layers of veneer with glue to form a thicker piece – the first description of what we now call plywood. Samuel Bentham was a British naval engineer with many shipbuilding inventions to his credit.

About fifty years later Immanuel Nobel, father of Alfred Nobel, realized that several thinner layers of wood bonded together would be stronger than one single thick layer of wood.

 Plywood was introduced into the United States in 1865 and industrial production started shortly after. In 1928, the first standard-sized 4 ft by 8 ft plywood sheets were introduced in the United States for use as a general building material.  From Wikipedia

With the advent of this invention it was now possible to manufacture engineered panels with increased strength and dimensional stability. A stable groundwork for veneer that was resistant to warp and shrinkage splits.

Which leads me to the subject at hand... warped cabinet doors.


Restoration

Warped doors on cabinets are a fairly common occurrence. Often they can be coaxed into an acceptable position by adjusting the hinges. This doesn't remove the warp but only balances the panel and frame in the opening.

In the case of our current patient a more invasive procedure was required. (Using what we've delved into previously plywood seems an option.) The stiles were warped and twisted enough to pull the door almost 2" out of plane when closed. Even the original heavy duty compression latch wasn't enough to keep it closed.


Taking apart the wayward door was in this instance almost half the battle. Being a newer reproduction piece the joints were glued with synthetic modern adhesive which proved to be rather resistant to dis-assembly.





Once the door was apart the stiles were bandsawed through their entire length to remove the tension in the wood caused by the warp. Before proceeding to the next step the saw kerf was cleaned up with a hand plane.


A new piece of wood, the thickness of the material removed by resawing was then glued between the 2 pieces of the stile and clamped on a flat surface to eliminate the distortion. A wood "sandwich", or in essence plywood. By gluing up the pieces with a core of quarter sawn kiln dried birch, the tension was distributed between the three pieces and the glue joint.

After removing the flattened piece from the clamps, the excess material was trimmed to blend with the original. The joinery was cleaned and refitted to correct for any remaining distortion and the door was re-assembled.







Stile in clamps
The "Sandwich" prior to trimming






The Completed Project



Closeup of spline


Additional Photos Here

Friday, December 6, 2013

Antique Show Exhibit


I'm exhibiting at this weekend at The 72nd Annual Woman's Club of Wilmette Antiques Show. If you are in the area - stop in and say hello!


For more information click here


Monday, May 14, 2012

The Trunk

I know - I should always take before photos. But sometimes, I'm all in a rush, or I think the object mundane.

Wrong again.

It was in a fairly decrepit condition and the guidelines of the treatment were narrow.
  • Better - but not perfect
  • Attractive - but not expensive
  • Functional "as is" - without jumping through too many hoops



    So I cleaned all of the exterior surfaces. Removed the miniscule remnants of tooled leather that originally covered the open fields of pine you see here. Cleaned the old japanning from the strapping, and replaced the missing leather handles.


    Here you can see the original tooling pattern of the hide. From the indentations it was tooled in place after application.

    I love the details on the hardware






    A coat of amber shellac on the wood surfaces, yellow tinted shellac on the hardware and bone black pigment on the strapping. The interior I lined with fabric on removable mat board, so that it could be used for storage.



    I was gratifyingly surprised at how well it pulled together without going to extremes.






      
    Remnants of leather

    The Maker



    A little digging on the "internets" yielded a small amount of information on the maker.

    Who's who in Chicago 1905
    The book of Chicagoan s
    John William Leonard, author 


    Wilt, Charles T., manufacturer; born St Louis, Mo., Nov. 22, 1859;.
    Son of Charles T (Sr ) and Emerette A. (Babcock) Wilt; came to Chicago in childhood
     

    Education. Ogden, Newberry and Lincoln schools, graduating from latter

    Married Chicago, July 31, 1888 to Charlotte D Fairbairn;
    Children: Charles T., Jr., Collin D. Robert Lloyd Wheaton, Elmer Ellsworth.


    In 1878 entered business (founded by his father, 1862)of Charles T. Wilt, manufacturer in trunks traveling bags, etc.; is now head of firm, which is still conducted as Charles T. Wilt.

    Republican. Captain. 1st 111. Voluntary Infantry, served through Santiago campaign of Spanish-American War. Member of the Veteran Corps, 1st Regiment


    Board of Directors NEW ILLINOIS ATHLETIC CLUB. 112 S. MICHIGAN AVENUE.

    Friday, May 20, 2011

    In Plain Sight

    If I screw up this repair I may need a witness protection program...


    I'm often worried when doing a large patch in an obvious place - like right in the middle of a Pembroke table top -  that the final result could be as disfiguring as the original damage.

    The image here is of a previous failed patch. The restorer inlaid the patch and then proceeded to sand through the surrounding veneer in an attempt to level his patch.

    If you look closely you can see diagonal cross grain scratches that are actually the toothing marks on the back of the veneer from the original construction. In traditional veneering the groundwork and the back of the veneer are "toothed" with a toothing plane to level the surfaces and increase adhesion.

    After picking out the appropriate veneer patch, I made a sketch of the patch by laying tracing paper over the damage. The odd shape allows for as many long parallel lines as possible. When it comes time to touch up the repair it will be easier to hide the inlay if there are no lines perpendicular to the grain.



    After cutting out the shape in the new veneer I laid the piece over the damaged area and lined up the grain. Then carefully scoring through the original veneer with a scalpel,  using the patch as a template, I transferred the pattern to the top.

    The waste material was then removed with scalpels, chisels and a Stanley #271 hand router.



     

    In addition to sanding through the surrounding veneer, the original restorer also tried to blend in the damage by adding faux worm holes. In order to level out the ground work, I filled the losses with a consolidant and then leveled the surface with scrapers.

    At this point I had a massive boat/ghost shaped hole in the middle of a beautiful 18th Century English Mahogany Pembroke table. Feeling more than a bit apprehensive, I moved forward mubbling a pray for redemption under my breathe.

    When all of edges were cleanly cut and the waste removed the patch was glued in place using traditional hide glue. After drying 24 hours the new veneer was hand scraped to the level of the old veneer. I finished up "lightly" by sanding with 220 sandpaper to blend in the edges.

    No reason to duplicate the efforts of my predecessor.

    Having spent the time upfront to dig through my veneer stock for just the right piece. The finishing process and blending of the color was remarkable easy.

    Adding a small amount of distressing helped to blend in the overall final appearance. And while the finished patch is surely visible, It no longer jumps out at you on first viewing.




    .

    Tuesday, April 19, 2011

    Mass Production "1750 style"

    with a little 21st century help

    When this pair of  demi-lune tables arrived only one of the 12 carved corner brackets or spandrels  remained entirely intact. I decided it was best to make complete spandrels and than cut them into the remaining sections to retain as much of the original as possible.

    Traditionally a  tracing or rubbing would be made to duplicate the missing parts.

    Instead I photographed the bracket, scaled it in Adobe Photoshop and traced over it in Corel Designer. After adjusting for the printers scaling I printed out 12 perfect templates giving me one more bracket than I needed but allowing for "mistakes" From that point on it was back to the eighteenth century.

    The first step was to cut out all of the profiles with a scroll saw and clean up the corners and inside cuts with a chisel.

    Then the template was cut into sections and the details traced onto the faces of the blanks.

    Its always tempting to want to carve one of the pieces completely at this point. But being impatient to see the final result will lead to a lack of uniformity. Completely carving each bracket before starting the next would mean that each one is unique and individual - an admirable trait in some things but not in a repeating pattern.
    The face elevations are all carved on each piece followed by the rounding or each leaf followed by the... section by section, piece by piece.






    A very gratifying and peaceful way to spend an afternoon - or three.


    Additional Photos



    History


    In talking to the client about this post it became apparent that I had neglected some relevant history. This pair of demi-lunes was a "near" pair. The earlier piece being 18th century, the later an almost perfect copy made in the late 1800's.

    Thank you Don for refreshing my memory!





    Saturday, April 16, 2011

    The Leg Repair

    Usually when a leg breaks on any piece of furniture its an easy task to put the parts back together. In the case of this leg however, there is little if any support for such a cross grain break. 

    The rule of thumb I was taught was that the gluing surface should be a minimum of 6 to 1. Six times longer than the thickness.

    Obviously not possible here so it has to be doweled through the break.The next problem is - how can you possible get a dowel aligned straight through the break when the surface is so irregular?

    If the break was closer to either end of the leg you could glue it together and then drill through the break after it had dried.  In this instance the break is 16 inches from the closet end so not a possibility.

    So... I squared the leg up on my mitre box and cut through the leg just above the break. Glued the break together, centered the two sides and drilled the dowel hole. I glued the joint using West System epoxy, a material best known for boat building. It provides an incredible amount of strength and ages well.

    With the addition of a small amount of micro balloon filler it also fills gaps and voids in the joint. Slight pressure from a packing band to hold it together until it dried and we're on to the finishing process.

                  

    Glues and Adhesives

    In most situations I avoid using epoxy like the plague. It is completely irreversible making it unsuitable for most conservation work. If you make an error in reassembly or the piece shifts as it cures you are left with no options for realignment of the joint.

    While it should never be used in a cut joint, occasionally when a section is broken in an area that needs structural stability, it has is purposes. With this repair, the leg is delicate and holding up a 6 foot long mahogany sideboard. The use of the dowel will add strength (that 6:1 ratio) and keep the joint true and square until cured. Other options would require replacing the leg or removing so much of the original material as to disfigure the piece.

    mea maxima culpa...


    Sunday, April 10, 2011

    The Grandfather Clock

    When I first saw this clock I knew it was going to be quite the "project”. The piece had been stored unused in the basement for over 30 years. Given the humidity in the basement it’s fairly amazing that it was in as good a condition as it was. I brought the piece to the studio in mid January and set to work sorting out the problems.

    The upper case was separated from the base at the waist and the base was in 5 to 6 pieces. The majority of the feet were missing but enough of the original ground work remained to determine their original dimensions.


    The cornice on the hood was detached on one side and one of the finials was broken. Two of the upper case shoulder moldings were missing as was the glass for the hood door along with one hinge.






    The works were heavily corroded and pitted the chapter rings had lost most of their silvering and the moon dial was extremely degraded with large areas of loose and tented decoration.


    I began the process by re-gluing all of the broken sections of the base and replacing the missing feet. From there I reattached the mid case to the base and re-applied the waist mouldings. Once the case was standing on its own I continued re-gluing all of the remaining joinery.

    The portion of the restoration presenting the biggest challenge was the painted moon dial. The painted surface was friable with little or no adhesion to the groundwork. Any contact with the surface dislodged sections of the paint.








    I began cleaning the more stable areas with a small dry short haired brush, removing as much of the surface dust as possible without disturbing the painted surface. Cleaning further with a mild detergent all areas that would hold up to mechanical interaction. Left with no way to remove the dust and grime from the remaining portions I flooded the surface with Soluvar flat medium.

    Slightly warming the moon dial as the varnish set up I collapsed the tented paint to the ground with a small burnisher. 24 hours later I had a primarily stable surface with a large amount of dust glued to it!

    Now that the paint layer was adhered to the groundwork, I simply removed all of the Soluvar from the surface with turpentine, mineral spirits and Q-tips. With 95% of the grime removed I sealed the surface with Soluvar gloss and did a minimum of in-painting of the losses with acrylics. 

    The clock face itself was less problematic. It was a simple task to disassemble all of the parts and clean them non-mechanically with a mild pickling solution. After re-silvering the chapter rings all of the pieces were lacquered and then re-assembled.
     With the works in order I set about making the missing cornice sections. Digging through my scarp I found a length of brown English oak of about the right color and texture. Using a set of antique hollows and rounds I planed the pieces to the proper profile and fit them to the case.


    The existing coating on the case was black and so heavily pigmented that you could have easily mistaken it for paint. The majority of it washed away with little more than alcohol. Using traditional French polish I built up the new coating over the course of two days adding small amounts of Van Dyke water stain in the corners and depressions to mimic the age marks.

    After re-glazing the hood door, making one offset hinge and the waist door escutcheon from sheet brass and cutting a new key the clock was finished. 




    The final effect was exhilarating and immensely gratifying, but then as is often the case after spending a little over 3 months with a project like this, it occurred to me I had to give it back to the owners. Funny how attached you can get!



    Elliott of London - Clock History

    In 1865 James Jones Elliott of 156 Cheapside in the City of London, was apprenticed to "Bateman" of 82 St John Street, Smithfield, London, to learn the art of clock making.

    It was not obvious at the time, but this was to be the origin of a company that would achieve a worldwide reputation as a manufacturer of the fine quality Elliott of London clock.

    JJ Elliott specialized initially in producing pinions and balance shafts, he progressed to making, and patenting, a weight driven movement which had chimes on tubes. This original Elliott clock was very successful and resulted in considerable trade with America.

    James Elliott's son, Frank Westcombe Elliott, was originally entering the retail trade as, when he was 17 years old, his father bought a partnership with a jeweler called Walden of Brompton Road, London. On the 16th April 1904, JJ Elliott died and Frank succeeded him to run the clockmaking business. In 1909 the clockmakers company of JJ Elliott amalgamated with Grimshaw Baxter, and the factory moved to Grays Inn Lane, London, in 1911, followed by a further move, in 1917, to larger premises in St Anns Road, Tottenham, London.

    In 1921 the partnership with Grimshaw Baxter was dissolved and Frank Elliott joined a well known firm of Bell Founders and Clockmakers, Gillett and Johnson Ltd, in Croydon. In 1923, two years later, he took over their clock factory and formed the famous company of F.W. Elliott Ltd. He was joined by his two sons, Leonard and Horace Elliott, who had served their apprenticeships in the trade. The third son, Ronald, joined the company in 1929.

    Elliott's started to produce clocks for the armed forces when war was declared in 1939, together with test gear and apparatus for the Rolls Royce engines used in the RAF planes. The factory was hit by incendiary bombs in 1943 on two occasions but production was not seriously affected.

    In 1944, Frank Elliott died at the age of 69 and Horace Elliott assumed the role of Managing Director, whilst Horace controlled sales from a showroom in Hatton Garden. In 1952, Horace Elliott was elected Chairman of the British Horological Institute in the same year as Tony, one of Horace's sons, joined the company after training in cabinet making. He was appointed manager of the cabinet shop in 1967.

    Ronald Elliott died suddenly in 1966, at the age of 54, his son Peter had joined the company in January of the same year, having been trained as an engineer at Vickers Instruments Ltd. Peter Elliott was appointed as a Director in 1969.